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Alpine Christmas Stocking Free Crochet Pattern
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The free alpine Christmas stocking crochet pattern has the most amazing texture and its a no-sew pattern too. The stocking itself is made in one-piece and the cuff is made separately. I just love the texture of this stocking! That being said I’ve always been a big fan of the alpine stitch and what’s more festive than alpines, right? I just can’t wait to make more of these ready for Christmas.

Alpine Christmas stocking description

This crochet Christmas stocking is made using the alpine stitch giving it the most gorgeous texture. Similarly, the cuff of the stocking is ribbed and folded over to create a contrast and traditional Christmas look. Additionally, the Christmas stocking is full sized and perfect to hang up over your fireplace.

How to crochet an alpine stitch Christmas stocking

The alpine Christmas stocking crochet pattern is intermediate skill level. You will of course need to know all of your basic crochet stitches as well as knowing how to work into back loops and front loops. Importantly you’ll need to know how to drop down to work into the previous row. The Christmas stocking itself is made in one piece, the cuff is made separately and is crocheted on, there’s no sewing involved. To make the stocking I used aran (weight 4) yarn in two colours. As you can see I used silver and white but you can use any colours you like.


Free Waffle Christmas stocking crochet pattern

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Hook sizes

6mm crochet hook

Yarn

Aran yarn in 2 colours. I used Stylecraft special Aran

  • Silver – 196m / 214yd
  • white – 95m / 104yd

Terminology

USA

Abbreviations

MR – magic ring

ch – Chain

st/sts – Stitch/stiches

sp/sps- Space/spaces

sl st – Slip stitch

rep – Repeat

sc – Single crochet

hdc – Half double crochet

dc – Double crochet

inc – Increase (2 stitches in 1 space)

sc2tog – Single crochet 2 together (decrease)

FP – front post

Gauge / tension

6mm hook – 2” x 2” square = 5 rows of 6 hdc 

Finished size – 17” x 6”

Pattern notes

I do not count chains in my stitch count.

Numbers in brackets are the number of rounds/stitches.

Stitches separated with a comma are to be made in separate spaces eg. (sc, inc) would mean sc in first stitch then inc in next stitch.

All front post stitches are made into the dc’s in the round below your last round.

Supplies

You will need the following supplies to complete the crochet project (links will take you directly to my recommended supplies)

– Crochet hooks 

– Tapestry needle

– Aran yarn

– Stitch markers (optional)

– scissors

– Tape measure

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Toe

Use a 6mm crochet hook

Use yarn colour A (silver)

Round 1

hdc x 10 into MR

sl st to join & ch 1

(10 sts)

Round 2

inc x 10

sl st to join & ch 1

(20 sts)

Round 3

(inc, hdc) x 10

sl st to join & ch 1

(30 sts)

Round 4

(inc, hdc x 2) x 10

sl st to join & ch 1

(40 sts)

Round 5

(inc, hdc x 19) x 2

sl st to join & ch 1

(42 sts)

Round 6

sc x 42

sl st to join & ch 2

(42 sts)

Round 7

dc x 42

sl st to join & ch 1

(42 sts)

Foot

Be aware the next rounds should alternate to create the alpine stitch and not vertical lines.

Round 8

sc x 42

sl st to join & ch 2

(42 sts)

Round 9

– Work dc’s into sc from last round as usual

– Work FPdc into dc of the round before

(dc, FPdc) x 21

sl st to join & ch 1

(42 sts)

Round 10

sc x 42

sl st to join & ch 2

(42 sts)

Round 11

– Work dc’s into sc from last round as usual

– Work FPdc into dc of the round before

(FPdc, dc) x 21

sl st to join & ch 1

(42 sts)

Round 12 – 23

Rep rounds 8-11 : 3 times

(12 rounds)

Heel

Row 24

sc x3, hdc x2, dc x10, hdc x2, sc x3

ch 1 & turn

(20 sts)

Row 25

Wrong side

sc2tog, sc, hdc x3, dc x8, hdc x3,

sc, sc2tog

ch 1 & turn

(18 sts)

Row 26

sc2tog, sc, hdc x2, dc x8, hdc x2,

sc, sc2tog

ch 1 & turn

(16 sts)

Row 27

Wrong side

sc2tog, sc, hdc x2, dc x6, hdc x2,

sc, sc2tog

ch 1 & turn

(14 sts)

Row 28

sc2tog, sc, hdc x2, dc x4, hdc x2,

sc, sc2tog

ch 1 & turn

(12 sts)

Row 29

Wrong side

sc2tog, sc, hdc x2, dc x2, hdc x2,

sc, sc2tog

ch 1 & turn

(10 sts)

Leg

Round 30

sc2tog, sc x6, sc2tog,

sc x 6 in raw edge

sc x 22

sc x 6 in raw edge

sl st to join and ch 1

(42 sts)

Round 31

– Work dc’s into sc from last round as usual

– Work FPdc into dc of the round before

dc x 14

(dc, FPdc) x 11

dc x 6

sl st to join and ch 1

(42 sts)

Round 32 – 55

Rep rounds 8-11 : 6 times

(24 rounds)

Round 56 – 58

Rep rounds 8-10

(3 rounds)

Round 59

Change to colour B (white)

sc x 42

sl st to join and fasten off

(42 sts)

Cuff

The cuff is worked separately

Use yarn colour B (white)

Continue with a 6mm crochet hook

Row 1

ch 31

sc x 30 starting 2nd ch from hook

ch 1 & turn

(30 sts)

Row 2 – 41

blo sc x 30

ch 1 & turn

(30 sts)

Row 42

Join row 1 & 41 together

blo sc x 30

ch 1 & turn to work on raw edge

(30 sts)

Round 43

Work along raw edge

sc x 42 (1 in the end of each row)

ch 1

(42 sts)

Round 44

Put the cuff inside the stocking with the sc’s from round 43 at the top

Join the white (B) sc rounds together using 42 x sc

Fasten off & weave in ends

(42 sts)

Next pull the cuff out of the stocking and fold in half.

Hanging loop

The loop is worked separately

Use yarn colour A (silver)

Continue with a 6mm crochet hook

Row 1

ch 21

sl st x 20 starting 2nd ch from hook

Fasten off leaving long tail

(20 sts)

Next sew the hanging loop through both sides of the cuff and your stocking is complete